How many citadel paints

Thin with a dab of water to keep the paint flowing off your brush and apply it with ease. I never bother trying to paint yellow on anything without starting first with a good coat of Averland Sunset. For most miniature pieces I paint yellow, I use Yriel Yellow as my highlight for yellow surfaces.

For highlighting Averland Sunset above , this is the perfect choice. Mix the two paints together for a nice midtone transition. To paint fire effects, you can use this yellow as the transition between the orange and the white parts of the flame. This is a must-have yellow paint along with Averland Sunset. Mournfang Brown is the most versatile brown paint for painting miniatures.

For example, leather cloth may have this brown as a darker shade or as the main color. For bases with dirt and dark earth, Mournfang Brown takes center stage. This is a multipurpose brown. Use Agrax Earthshade to quickly add contrast to this base brown color. Highlight Mournfang brown with orange or white hue mixtures, or use Rakarth Flesh see below. Rakarth Flesh is another base color that provides you with many versatile applications.

Start with this color as a basecoat or use it as a highlight layer paint. Solid opaque coverage can be had in coats. A small bit of water will help it flow off your brush. I use this paint color for lighter skin tones, for painting parchment papers e. This is a lovely paint that I recommend for its many uses. I mean this for humans or non-humans, beasts, and what-not. Khorne Red is your standard red paint. It is brighter than Mephiston Red , which makes Khorne Red more useful. It is hard to brighten red paint, so starting with the brighter Khorne Red helps you avoid that hurdle.

Khorne Red is my go-to red paint for anything requiring the prototypical red coat of paint. Or, you can be a bit adventurous and use Kantor Blue as a shade below , playing with color temperature. For an easy highlight, Evil Sunz Scarlet below will pair well with Khorne Red, and is a popular color for edge highlighting this base red color. Evil Sunz Scarlet is a semi-bright red-orange paint color.

I use this paint to highlight almost all of my red painted elements, either using edge highlighting or dry brushing techniques see here for the 8 must-know techniques for blending model paint. Evil Sunz Scarlet is incredible versatile in this regard and works great with many red or orange hues, e. Evil Sunz Scarlet is a layer paint formulation and will be a less opaque than the Citadel base paints.

It may take more than layers for complete coverage of an underlying color. I recommend thinning this paint with a bit of water to keep pigments flowing and avoid a splotchy, uneven finish. Kantor Blue is a dark blue paint. As a Citadel base paint, you can use it as a base coat layer for other brighter blue paints, or as a shade for other colors, like red an adventurous way to harmonize your color palette and add contrast.

I paint almost all my blue-glowy powerswords using Kantor blue as the base layer. Mixing this dark blue with lighter blues, i. Smooth application with this paint will also help you add a bit of cool metallic sheen to your NMM painting.

Alaitoc Blue is a light, baby blue paint color. This is my favorite blue for highlight almost any blue hues, including Kantor Blue. Use this is a midtone color in glowing lightning power swords and weapons, or as part of the reflections you paint in reflective lenses. Everyone needs a light blue paint in their paint collection. I highly recommend Alaitoc Blue for this reason. For equivalent light blues in other paint brand ranges, you can check the color conversion chart here.

Calibran Green is a fairly dark green base paint. Coverage and application is excellent straight from the bottle. For painting armor, e.

A largely ignored aspect of Citadel paints is how easy they are to thin and use as glazes or dry brush mediums. For more about techniques to help you layer and glaze paint, check out this article. Of all the green paints in the Citadel Paint line, Waaaagh! Flesh is the green paint color that made me take a second look. Flesh is a base formulated paint designed for easy layer coverage and smooths out evenly when dry.

It works great as a main color paint for green skin tones, e. You can use Waaaagh! Flesh thinned down as a glaze to help you add a bit of lichen and moss to stone ruins, rocks, and terrain. Tint this green with white paint and you can create some interesting, mystical glowing effects on fantasy miniatures, e.

For a Skaven army, I used this green a lot for painting the rag clothing on clanrats. Warpstone Glow is a bright, almost fluorescent green that you can use to highlight other green paint layers. I along with others have used this to create glowing effects, e.

Leadbelcher is a highly pigmented metallic paint. As a base metallic paint, Leadbelcher is my favorite metallic for anything I need to paint steel or iron. In general, I use Leadbelcher for nearly every metallic base coat paint job. If I need to brighten this metallic paint, I may mix in a bit of silver metallic paint. Nuln Oil works great as a shade for Leadbelcher. Stormhost Silver is a bright, silvery metallic paint.

A comparable metallic paint would be Vallejo Steel Paint , which may not apply as easily to sharp edges. But, with a bit of patience, you will find this eminently useful as a highlighting metallic paint for brightening up metals, even golds. Gold metallic paint, like yellow paint, have had a bad rap for having poor coverage. They are often hard to use and frequently result in a splotchy finishes.

Not Retributor Armour. I also tried out some other base paints, for example Balthasar Gold, which is a brownish, brassish gold that takes about two or three coats to cover. As Vallejo Game Colour Brassy Brass, which is similar in tone, takes only one or two coats to cover, I expected more from a metallic base paint.

Verdict: This is a hard one. Base paints have become easier to use, but are not that much different from regular paint anymore. I guess some people will prefer the thicker but better covering foundation paints while others enjoy the more vibrant tones and easier application of the base paints.

Layers are your regular acrylic paint and thus the successors of the Citadel Colours. I always felt the regular Citadel paints were the weak spot of the old paint range. They dried very fast and often thinned down unevenly, both issues that made layering and blending quite hard. There were some great colours, especially the silvers, but all in all both Vallejo, Reaper and Privateer Press had paints with better coverage and a easier to use consistency.

With the new layer paints Games Workshop caught up with their competitors. The consistency is similar to the old Citadel Colours, so quite thin, you need to add almost no water. When dry, the finish is as matt as the old Citadel paints.

The coverage of the paints I tried was average. Not bad, but not breath-taking either and certainly not worse. Here is what came out when I played around with the new layer paints. Verdict: The best bit about the new layer paints is the choice. There are more purples, more greens, they brought back blue greens and turquoise, there are a lot of different greys — blueish, brownish and purplish ones — but also warm, neutral and cool ones, there are more different browns and off-whites.

A lot of cool new tones to play around with. They also improved the behaviour of the paints, which now flow easier from the brush. Just as foundation paints, the old washes were very popular. Everybody loved them because they made it easy to get decent results in very little time, even for the not so gifted painters.

I imagine a lot of people got quite nervous when they heard that their beloved washes got replaced. The shades definitely have to take on a difficult heritage, but in those video testimonials over on GW. Above you can see three test models, all primed white and washed with different black washes. On the left you have the old Badab Black, in the middle there is the new Nuln Oil and on the right I applied Vallejo Lavado black wash.

As long as the shade is still wet, the shading looks awesome. But once the wash is dry, a lot of the effect is gone. As you can see above, in comparison to good old Badab Black, Nuln Oil stains the flat areas much more, resulting in less contrast to the shaded areas.

So Babab Black has the better effect after all. The worst result is achieved with the Vallejo wash, which dries very patchy. I also tried out Casandora Yellow and Coelia Greenshade. I think the results are better than with Nuln Oil, still there is a lot of surface staining. Coelia Greenshade is a nice, dark green wash, much darker than Thraka Green.

Casandora Yellow has a lot of orange in it, but you can create a nice strong yellow by washing it over a white primer. Are the shades better than the old washes? No, but you can work with them. Glazes are new and compliment the shades. There are four tones, one for each of the three basic colours and green. They are meant to be used for tinting areas or to restore colours that have been overly highlighted. You can see a glaze with Lamenters Yellow on the picture below so you can compare the effect with Casandora Yellow above.

Here is an example what you can do with glazes. Over a white primer I applied Casandora Yellow, then I added white highlights, glazed with Lamenters Yellow to tint the white highlights and to strengthen the yellow, and finally highlighted with white again.

Very quick way to paint a decent yellow! Another idea is to use Bloodletter the red glaze and Guilliman Blue the blue glaze on flesh to create more natural variations in the skin. Verdict: Glazes are meant for the more experienced painter. These are completely new and very unique type of paint no other manufacturer has.

GW formulated a paint that is meant to benefit the drybrushing technique, quite creative you have to give them that. What you get is a paint that has a lot of pigment but less acrylic medium, the result is similar to dried paint. I had a little test run with Terminatus Stone which is unlike the purplish swatch on the website a warm light grey and yeah, it works pretty well. The dry paint sticks very well to the brushed surface and you waste less paint, as you need to wipe away almost nothing from your brush.

The result are nice drybrushed highlights which look as good as with any other paint and not as chalky as you might get the impression from those super close-ups in White Dwarf. One question I read a lot is can you actually mix Dry Compounds with water or acrylic medium to create a regular acrylic paint?

Lets try it out. For the test I used plain water and Vallejo Game Colour Thinner, which is a transparent acrylic flow improver, essentially the same as the new Lahmian Medium. I found out that because the paint is very thick and grainy, you need to add a lot of water or medium to dissolve the pigments, which results in a very thin and badly covering paint, plus those grainy particles might result in an uneven finish. So not a good idea. Verdict: Dry compounds do what they say.

But are they really needed? The tones of the dry compounds are all very light, so I recommend drybrushing them over a dark basecoat first and add a wash or shade second, which not only tints those bright highlights but also helps to conceal the typical cloudy effect drybrushing creates.

This is paint mixed with fine grit that comes in six natural tones. You can use it for basing or weathering and dirt effects.

Similar to dry compounds this is a very thick paste for which you need a strong brush to apply and push around. I recommend synthetic brushes as they can take a lot of beating. To create a similar basing effect as with sand, you need to apply two thick coats. As you can see, if you only apply one coat, the texture of the base will come through. You might get away with a single coat only if you add a lot of static grass or other flock. On the picture below is what the base looks like after a drybrush with Terminatus Stone and a wash of Nuln Oil plus there is a base that has been traditionally textured with sand for comparison:.

Verdict: Basing with texture paint is a matter of taste, look at the pictures above and judge for yourself which basing technique you prefer. Also check this post to learn more about Vallejo Textures. There are four different technicals, a gloss coat, an acrylic medium, a black brush-on primer and liquid green stuff.

This already gives a clue what you can expect in terms of compatibility. A lot of people wonder if they will find good matches once they run out of their old paint. Here is a swatch with four old and new Citadel paints:. Do they match? I also had a good look instore how the new paints look in real life. Of course paint looks different in a translucent paint pot than dried on a model, but it gave me a good feeling for the new range.

If you depend on some of the old paints for a specific paint scheme, I advise you to stock up now before the old tones are forever gone. The new paints are out today and you should find them in any shop that carries GW products. There are also some good offers online.

Is it the one paint range to rule them all, do you need to throw away all your other paint and rejoice? They did a lot of things right by adding more variety and increasing the quality of their regular paints with their layers.

How does the new Citadel paint range fare against other manufacturers? I think the answer is mixing and matching. One brand has the better reds, another the best silvers, yet another the best washes.

Just open your mind, try out other ranges and see what works best for you. Did you like this post? Vielen Dank! Thanks Stahly, great review. I feel Like I know what to expect a little more now. I'm not all that fussed about colour compatibility but I can understand issues for people in the middle of painting an army. If anything this new range will encourage me to explore alternatives so I expect Vallejo and P3 will benefit to some extent and I'm sure the new citadel range will get a healthily look in too.

I'm totally against being a fan bois so I'm going to keep my options open! This is a fantastic and detailed review. If you do get a chance to try the Lahmian glaze medium I would be very interested in the results. Having tried a sample of each range I can't really disagree with your assessments they pretty much aling woth my experience. I found the new bases really great, compared to old citadel colour which is far too thin for my liking. They do have a very nice finish but yes its a bit of a myth to cover on one coat even Mechrite Red needed coats to remove blemishes.

I do love the Mephiston Red colour though that's a new fave. I think Drybrushes are a neat idea. Starting out I would have loved these products and who knows, we old hands might find some interesting uses for them.

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